純乳木果 Unrefined Shea Butter

Last Updated 10-Mar-2014 12:30 PM

如果有看過我之前的文章都知道筆者是濕疹的長期患者,一直以來都依賴類固醇治療發炎的濕疹皮膚;每逢天氣變冷,身體各處的濕疹就會變得紅腫和痕癢,這時要不即時使用類固醇藥膏,後果將相當嚴重。長期以來爲了減輕類固醇的用量,我會將類固醇藥膏以一比一的分量與平日常用的身體潤膚露拌勻使用,這樣不但減輕了類固醇的使用量,同時也減輕經濟負擔,實際效果也很不錯,因為只要皮膚不再痕癢,濕疹也就自然會好,不必每次都使用高劑量的類固醇。

雖然類固醇的療效確是立竿見影,但長期吸收始終會對肝腎造成負擔,因此我一直用盡方法尋找天然的代替品,希望可以戒除對類固醇的依賴。“自療”濕疹十幾年,最近終於讓我找到天然的塗抹護膚霜,那就是天然的乳木果油。這種被非國家譽為軟黃金的果油,無論對於毛髮或者皮膚的護養都有神奇的療效。

香港有賣乳木果油的大牌子離不開L'Occitane,以下這款就是他們家出品的純木果油。這是我見過平均價錢最低、容量又最大的乳木果油。雖然產品指示寫明這裡面的乳木果油都是有機的,可是它並不可以算是100%純乳木果油,因為裏面還包含了附加的維他命E,一方面是爲了防腐同時用以增加產品的延展性。這款產品是純白色的,和真正黃色的新鮮乳木果油區別甚遠,雖然這款類似雪花膏的乳木果油確實很保濕、很適合冬天乾燥的皮膚,可是以針對發炎濕疹患處的效果而言實在看不到有什麽效果。

這款乳木果油的包裝比較大,個人發明了最方便的使用方法就是用粉撲,稍微用點力就能取得足夠的乳霜並用於身體大範圍的地方。雖然保濕效果真的很超卓,可是價錢有點貴,如果只是當成身體潤膚露使用就略嫌浪費了。$340/150ml

真正新鮮的純乳木果油 Raw Unrefined Yellow Shea Butter


爲什麽這麼大牌的產品都不夠好呢?原因是那些乳木果油是經過處理,其實油脂、尤其是植物油都是很容易被氧化及變壞的,尤其傳統抽取乳木果油的方法是用水,爲了保證產品品質均一及外觀吸引,大牌子的產品一般都經過純化及保鮮的處理,但經過處理的乳木果油成份會起變化,大大減低其消炎能力。雖然L'Occitane所使用的溶劑是維他命E,有效抗氧化,但產品說明並未有闡明產品是經過何種手法處理,因此產品只能用於一般保濕而不能指望有其他療效。

Unrefined shea butter simply means it is extracted and prepared without the use of chemicals or preservative. In other terms, that means it is produced the same way African people do it for centuries. And this is what really counts, because only unrefined shea butter keeps all of its natural healing properties. On the other hand, refined shea butter has usually been extracted with hexane or other petroleum solvents and some antioxidants or preservatives may also be added. Unfortunately, amazing shea butter moisturizing and healing properties are significantly reduced or completely removed in this process.

繼續搜索之下才得知要找有療效的乳木果油,必須是找那種用水提煉並沒有經過後期加工的方能有效。現在科技發達、網購也很普遍,要購得純乳木果油也是很方便的事,但高品質的乳木果必須具備以下特徵:

1. 未經精煉的乳木果油的顏色會因應果實的顏色而改變,最新鮮的乳木果油應該是淡黃色的,但經過運輸及儲存,其顏色會變淡及變得不平均,一般我們可以買到的純乳木果油都是淡黃色的;

2. 未經處理的乳木果油應保留天然的生果仁香味,經過存放後會變成有一點油抑味,但此時的乳木果油仍保留適度的療效;如經過化學油提煉的乳木果會完全喪失其天然的果仁香味,此等乳木果油雜質偏多並不適合過敏皮膚使用;

3. 新鮮的乳木果油應該頗為柔軟,稍微施壓就能溶於掌心,仔細觀看不應該看見粉粒,使用起來不應該帶來粗糙感;過亁及帶粉狀的乳木果很可能已經發黴,長有細菌,對於有傷口的皮膚可能造成感染,因此皮膚病人須要特別留意

Unrefined shea butter maintains its nutty scent, beige color and its healing properties. Refined shea butter has been chemically altered to remove shea butters natural scent, is bleach white in color and retains only a small portion of its natural healing properties. The end result of refinement is an odorless, white butter that may be aesthetically appealing, but lacks the true moisturizing, healing, and nutritive properties of true traditional shea butter.

Grading of Shea Butter

A – raw or unrefined, extracted using water;
B – refined;
C – highly refined and extracted with solvents such as hexane;
D – lowest uncontaminated grade;
E – with contaminants.

Grade A shea butter retains the most natural vitamins, especially vitamins A and E, which are partially lost in the other grades.

純乳木果油的功效


最有效區別未經精煉乳木果的方法還是靠自身皮膚的反應,到底怎樣的乳木果油對身體有益,皮膚會如實反應出來。我在市面上購買了另一款的純乳木果油,產品外觀符合了以上的三項條件,雖然還不算是最高級的乳木果油,但的確為我的濕疹皮膚帶來改變,新起的濕疹不但隔夜就退紅了還具有很顯著的止癢功效,而它是唯一一樣產品在使用期間能真正讓我脫離對於類固醇藥膏的依賴。大自然的治療能力,不尤得你不相信。

此款乳木果油包裝特別小,只比一個五元硬幣大一點,平均價錢要比L‘Occitane的貴,味道和顏色也不那麼討好,但就是有療效,價錢也與類固醇藥膏相約。$49/13ml 【參考價格:類固醇藥膏Elomet 價錢是 $52/15G】

此款乳木果油是純天然,未經加工,特別適合使用量高的用家。最好的用法是分裝到小型容器裏,避免剩餘的乳木果油過早氧化及喪失其活性。 $248/12oz. ~420G

除了治療濕疹以外,乳木果油還是多用途的天然護膚聖品,全賴內含豐富的維他命E及A,用途之廣泛可以從網上搜索得來。天然的乳木果油是略帶酸性的,使用在頭髮上能令頭髮變得柔軟富光澤,大家可以多上網發掘純乳木果油的好處。希望本篇文章對於正猶豫是否繼續使用類固醇藥膏的濕疹病人有幫助,它真是一個很好的替代品~

Shea butter is extremely rich natural source of two important vitamins, namely vitamin A and E. According to the before mentioned source, vitamin A in shea butter is important for improving a number of skins conditions, including blemishes, wrinkles, eczema, and dermatitis. The same source states that, although the exact benefit and function of the Vitamin E in human being is not entirely clear, it has been described as effective in a number of conditions or circumstances. These benefits include being anti-aging, an anti-free radical agent, and exerting a positive effect on increasing the micro-circulation.

Except as a superior moisturizer, shea butter is used to treat various skin problems including:
eczema / dermatitis/ stretch marks / dry skin and hair / insect bites / psoriasis / acne / cracked skin / itchy skin / muscle fatigue and tension / rheumatism / arthritis / sunburns / skin allergies and rashes / scars and dark spots / skin blemishes / wrinkles


資訊來源


關於乳木果油【ENG】 - http://sheabutterguide.com/shea-butter/

如果區分純乳木果油【ENG】
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Ht9E95c7AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbDlBcuX5Jc


不同類型的乳木果油【ENG】- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHmtnHl3D7Y

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